The EU recently introduced a new ruling on retinoids (an umbrella term for the vitamin A derivatives used effectively on acne, lines, wrinkles, discolouration, dullness and so on). Within its member states, skincare products for face and neck sold over the counter can no longer contain more than 0.3% retinoids.
The law was made not in response to concerns around the use of them on skin specifically, but is part of a cluster of restrictions within the food, supplement and beauty industries aimed at preventing overexposure to vitamin A generally. Brands now have three years to reformulate their products, although most have seen the laws coming and are ready.
While the UK is obviously not obliged to follow EU regulations, in practical and economic terms, we will. Few brands are up for making a product for sale in only one country. So now, in my view, is a good time to think about making your retinoids work harder for their percentage concentration, and switch from old-fashioned retinol to retinal – here, a single vowel change makes a great deal of difference.
Short for retinaldehyde, retinal works faster than retinol because it exists further down the conversion pathway – by which I mean that it has one less process to undertake before it becomes retinoic acid, the ingredient’s active state, in which it can get to work on skin texture and appearance. Some brands claim this shorter journey causes retinal to work up to 11 times faster, but there isn’t yet enough research into retinal to be sure. (Retinol, by contrast, has decades of clinical study under its belt.) Almost every dermatologist I’ve spoken to, however, is decidedly positive about it. They also feel retinal is better tolerated than retinol, making it a sensible choice for sensitive skins.
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There are now heaps of luxury £50+ retinals on the market, and a few affordable ones, too. I admire Naturium, which makes high-quality skincare products at a lower price than they could probably command. Its Retinaldehyde Cream Serum (£32) is excellent – non-drying, easy to use and as good at controlling breakouts as it is at smoothing skin. As a first foray into retinoids it is ideal. The Ordinary can always be relied on to democratise hi-tech skincare, and its Retinal 0.2 Emulsion Serum (£15.20) is a great price for the quality, but better for more experienced retinoid users. Both should be used at night, after cleansing, and swapped for a product with SPF of 30 or higher during the day.
